Bayliner Parts – Bayliner Covers

Posts Tagged ‘BAYLINER CAPRI’

Hi all! I’m new to boat buying and would like to get some advice about buying a boat. I have pretty much decided that I’m looking for something like the Bayliner Capri around 18-20′ with an open bow and outboard. I’m pretty much against inboard/outboard at this point, I don’t want to deal with any potential repair bills for the I/O components, but if you think it would be better convince me!!

It would be primarily used for lake use, water skiiing, some fishing, etc. with an occasional trip to salt water. I was hoping you all could recommend some boat/motor combinations. I heard that the Force outboards are no longer in business and parts are hard to come by which might be why there are so many on Craigslist. I’m trying to stay in the 5-6k range for price. I’ve heard some negative things about Bayliners. What specifically is wrong with them? I am looking for LOW maintanence, with a big emphasis on reliability! Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!

Inboard’s are actually a little easier to repair and a bit cheaper to maintain than an outboard. But, they take away precious space on the deck. Outboards are excellent for lake use, water skiing, and fishing.

If you want to hit the saltwater, be sure the motor and prop are made for such places or you can run into problems (such as corrosion). This is especially true for electric trolling motors, which is why they have both salt and fresh varieties of motors.

I think the stigma with Bayliners, is that they use a spray chop gun on their molds to make the hulls. Chipping, ing, and even osmosis problems with the fiberglass have been reported (although the sources I have seen this information from are iffy), and I haven’t seen any issues with the newer Bayliners from the US Coast Guard about the hulls in their recall listings each quarter since 2005. Bottom line, many people just despise spray on hulls. Hand-layed mat hulls are preferred by many. Overall, I have yet to see any Bayliners in person that are being hauled to the dump.

I myself handlay mat and gelcoat on my molds when I fiberglass and I don’t worry about osmosis problems.

I think the only real issues I have seen from the recall list in regards to the USCG list are fittings coming loose from use and I think they had some issues with seats not being properly bolted in. Nothing a quick lookover and fix (if it needs it) can take care of.

For a Bayliner, Mercury (Nissan or Tahatsu) or a Yahama outboard should work out fine. Be very sure to check for the manufacturer’s specs in regards to what is the largest engine the boat can safely use. Using a motor to large is not only dangerous but can be to you and/or your boat.

Also, be aware of carbon monoxide poisoning and request a pamplet on how CO can travel from an outboard while mooring, running, and idling. It’s just a safety awareness people should know about. Even boats without a cabin can still have CO going right over the person and slowly poison them.

5 to 6k for an outboard will buy a 115hp Mercury from the 90′s to 2000. Depending on its condition. Yahama’s are a mixed bag in pricing, but I have found them to be really good water skiing boat motors. There’s no science behind it, I just like Yahama’s better in this regard.

Hondas are excellent but expensive!

If you never piloted a boat, it wouldn’t hurt to take a boater’s course. Your local DMV should be able to help you in this regard or contact the USCG.

Hope this was helpful.

I have a 1987 BAYLINER CAPRI 17’ BOW RIDER…Engine is a 2.3LR 110h.p. 4 CYL”FORD” I/O WITH THE O.M.C. COBRA OUT DRIVE. How do you set the timing on my boat?

To do this right you wil need a timing light (or stroboscope light).
This timing light is connected to the no1 sparkplug wire and flashes only when the no1 spark plug fires, while aiming the light on the engines ballancer you have to turn the distributor lantern to set the needle to the right deg.of advance. mark on the ballancer, specified by the engines manual. (10 deg btdc at idle)