2006 Bayliner – Fiberglass Repair
One of our subscribers needs some advice on do-it-yourself fiberglass repair.
What is the best way to fill drill holes in fiberglass boat?
He has a 2006 bayliner. 19 ft The fiberglass is white in colour.
Thanks in advance, Rick
7 Responses to “2006 Bayliner – Fiberglass Repair”
Jim S. says;
his is one of the easiest patch jobs in gel-cote repair.
Sand the area around the hole with some 320 grit sand paper.
mix up some filler. I would use what is referred to as kitty hair.
It is a filler that has fiber glass fibers in the filler.
Mix it the way the directions tell you. I use a Flexible putty knife to apply. Just fill the hole until it squeezed out the outer side , if the hole goes all the way through.
Or until you can’t stuff ant more in a blind hole.
The more you let pile up on the out side the more sanding you will have to do.
After it dries about 30 Min’s. on average in a shop that isn’t cold. Sand with a sanding block until you can’t feel the patch when you rub it with the palm of your hand.Use 320 again.
Then you are ready to spray gel-cote. After you spray the gel wet sand with 800 grit and end with 2000 grit and the finish with Polish.
Polish I use 3M compound. I start with the brown then go to the pink and finish with white (feness). The three stages of compound are just like the grit of sand paper. The brown being the roughest and the white being the finest.
You can finish the whole thing off by washing and waxing the whole boat. Using a wax with uv Protector in it.
ricsudukai says;
It is critical to not allow water to enter the glass mat – if a screw is permanently fitted you should drill the hole out to two or three times the size of screw or bolt, and fill with a thickly modified epoxy – use vinyl tape to make a dam over the repair so you have minimal sanding, if you deliberately depress the repair a little and allow to just cure past green then remove the tape and you can add a little white epoxy porcelain bath repair (http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Porcel… with more tape to make flush with the surface. Let cure. Then a pilot hole can be drilled and your screw re-fitted with sealant such as sikkaflex 291.
If just filling holes then don’t worry about the drilling out bit – the main thing is that there can be no water in the glass fibres before the repair, or it will fail later. Either flush out well with metho and fully dry with a low heat air blower, or remove enough material to be in absolutely dry glass, and then repair as above.
If in doubt do some practice repairs using whichever compounds you feel best about, on scrap grp until you feel confident touching the customers boat – you don’t want to fumble about and be learning on a client’s time or pride and joy!
juanitodelgrande says;
I am a huge fan of West System and their recommended techniques. I saw a few answers regarding Marine Tex or Mr. Sticky, and while these are good and worthy products for ‘emergency’ repairs, you asked for the ‘best way’.
I have provided a link to the Bible of fiberglass repair and maintenance. It a PDF file, so just scroll down to about pg 20, and start reading.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf
algerbilt_33 says;
I use Adtech Ultra white filler. I grind the area immediately around the hole and fill it with the Adtech. Sand smooth and wipe with a fiberglass solvent.
Apply gel coat over the repair and when dry, wet sand to a smooth finish. Then buff out the repair with a buffer and some 3M compound. Source(s): Algerbilt Boat Restorations.
jims says;
Mr. Sticky. This is something every boater should keep on board. http://www.eclassifieds4u.com/toronto/ca-sticky-underwater-epoxy-adhesive-glue-ad-nlmkp60322
Boatin’in VA says;
All three of the answers given will make a suitable repair.
My choice would be the marine-tex as it’s easy to use.
Source(s): 20+ yrs of boating.
jtexas says;
marine-tex will make a permanent repair, easy.
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html